Well yesterday I sent "Sideways Daze" (8B) in Fontainebleau. Well it had been a long time since I had not done an 8B and although I still feel really below the level I had one year ago, it is pleasant to finally send something and especially that way.
To go back a little in time, I had tried sideways a couple of sessions but I couldn't do a hard match move on the really tiny crimp as my left heel hook would always go off. I tried it many times and my heel was always slipping. A few weeks ago I was in font and I gave it one go with an other beta, using a tiny foothold that I thought would never be possible to put enough pressure on, but I felt I could work but I had to poor skin to try more.
on this link you can see Guillaume Glairon mondet doing it the way I did.
Yesterday I was back in font, after a long time without motivation because of multiple problems, especially a constant tiredness, which reason I still have to find out, I managed to send the climb on my first attempt, feeling really easy... I must say I was very surprise when I got the final hold.
Anyway I now will focus on finishing my exams then I will try to train a little bit for magic wood where I'll be during summertime :)