17 août 2012

An other perfect time in the woods.

Well, my three weeks trip to magic wood is now over and I am back in town.
So many things to say about this summer, maybe I'll start about climbing. Climbing has now become to me something more that something I want to excel at, I must admit that I always had things in mind such as "Will that project go down,..."
I am now totally off that mood, I just want to climb when I feel that I want to do it, I don't care about getting stronger because it requires to much sacrifices, too much dedication and I am just not willing to do it.
So I did not climb a lot this trip and have preferred the social aspect. I had so much fun in the woods this time, meeting so many people, some amazing four Americans (they'll recognize themselves) I had great time with (YOLOOO) partying in the camp, going climbing drinking schnaps.
It's amazing that in such a place I always meet people that think like me.
Also had great time with the Finnish people here, always so kind as all fins are, thx Joonas and Anna for bringing your kindness here.

I wouldn't forget about the magic wood crazy team (Mischa-Bobi-Thomas-Science and the toilet guy aka me) really every time I come it's still the same, always enjoy this place so much, although after so many times, I have climbed a lot of things but I don't care because I don't go to magic to climb but to meet amazing people. Also want to thank Marion, my french friend Greg, all the people there who helped me in any way, Roman, the english who went shopping for me, the swiss guys, etc.

So I really think it is time for a new form of climbing in my life, a more detached to performance aspect way.
Also I had so much fun with my Belgian friends, Nico by whom I got the chance to meet more nice people, that I didn't know before, with whom I had so much fun (sometimes painful fun but still fun !)

 Just discovering I was not born to slack line, although I really tried hard on that move...

Although I did not send any of my projects, I had the best trip ever in my life, although there were moments I was kind of not feeling well, hard to know that there's an other reality out there which would eventually catch up with me.

So to talk about the climbing, I did not really tried hard on anything, I was doing good on remembrance of things past but there was one move blocking me and when I started to feel finally good, the trip was coming to an end. Also tried practice of the wild and this will be for sure the thing I want the most to try again because I only tried like a little hour and I could manage the last two moves very easily but I still need to work on some beta on the middle crux.
Still, I was pleased to try and feel like this 8C thing is really doable if I could commit a little more.

I did send "deep throat", adding an other 8B to my ticklist, It went at the third go and felt pretty good, although I was really close in it on my second trip to magic when I had to leave after having tried one session and an other small session when I had injured my bicep in the big move...

 When a lamp finds itself an other use...

 I don't have much more to add, I will come back soon in better shape so hopefully I can combine partying and climbing :p
This place is fucking great, and let me use the f word because none other word would suit better.

I just love the place and feel like I'm going to keep coming over the years because this is just the place where I feel the most happy, it's like if it had cast a spell on me...

Now is time to nostalgia, looking forward to coming back...

Thanks again, Olivier.

ps : new line behind octopussy boulder, nice 6C to the left named "lapinou" and 7B to the right dubbed "Quoi doigt". You can just go there past the octopussy boulder, go first path right then either go by a small tunnel or just circle the boulder, you'll see it easily, it's wall with a prow to it's right.

11 août 2012

Magic Wood update.

It's been 2weeks now that I've been in magic wood, and the trip comes to an end, well I'll leave on the 16th so it's getting close...

I haven't climbed that much this trip, especially because only the hardest things remain to be climbed as I did most of the classics, so I haven't been climbing that much, especially because I was tired at the beginning of the trip and then because there as been good mood going on so I have been drinking some beers which is not the best way to be in shape.

This year, I felt like I want to focus less on climbing, and do other things like having fun with the people at the camping, read and write a little bit so I must say it is a big change for me as I am not obsessed about crushing.

However, I did manage to send "Deep Throat" 8B yesterday in a few goes (problem that I had tried years ago and a small session 2years ago when I actually injured myself) so it feels going pretty well considering the lack of training and proper crushing lifestyle.

I will try a bit Practice Of the Wild tomorrow and the next days, see how it goes as I kind of dropped the remembrance project as it really feels to hard for me as my height requires me to do to many footwork which I don't see myself doing from the start... It really feels like 8C to me and I am not ready for it considering my shape now. I will therefore try somewhere in between and nana bianca the next days.

About Bodhi camping.

I have been also working a little bit in the camping, managing property and I would like to explain a few things for those who read my blog and might go to the woods.

Switzerland has a strict policy, even though many people complain about the thoroughness of the people, well it is the way things work here.

About the trashes, please sort them out!!

Don't put glass in normal bins, or metal, there are bins for glass-metal-plastic-carton-leftovers.
I always see bag full of those, unsorted just being leftover, I guess bins from people staying in cars and caravans, being to lazy to sort them out...
Most funny thing is that there are most of the time people complaining about capitalism, saying that we should respect the environment, try not to consume too much, etc.

So please be in accordance to your opinions.
Act here as if you were in your home country, seriously it cost nothing to sort trashes, just lazy people irresponsible do that.

About the guesthouse "Edelweiss"

Thomas, now manages the restaurant/guesthouse.

With this change, you can now come and have free wi-fi acces, playstation, big sofa in a special room.
There is also the possibility to shower for like 3CHF.

So please when you come to magic wood, respect the installations and everything because with the actual flow of people nowadays, it can get really dirty and we should avoid troubles before they occur...
Don't forget that climbing is a small community, and if we want to keep doing it, we have to be responsible!


-It will prevent the rock from getting soft too fast.
-It will help you during attempts.

About tick, let me tell you than putting ticks everywhere is useless, use your brain, trust me any brain is capable of reminding where to grab a hold ( ticks should be used when necessary)

Ticks are not forbidden or whatsoever but if you choose to use them, clean them after and don't leave that task to other people.


Not a hard task... And it is for everyone's best interest.

Cheers and enjoy climbing!