15 novembre 2011

A nice week in Ticino

A beautiful week in Ticino.

I have spent a nine days trip in the region of Ticino with my friend Tim, Nico and Raph.
We stayed in Claro in a very nice little house in the middle of this beautiful landscape that Switzerland offers to its visitors.

At first, I was very worried about my arm as mentioned in my last post, but I actually found out that my arm pain is dependent to my sleep, so with good sleep I can climb mind free.
So on my first day despite the fact that I basically torn the skin under my nails on three fingers making them bleed a little bit, I still managed to send “Le pilier” “Serre moi fort” and “ le vent nous portera” all 8a’s although the last one feels more like 7c+ in my opinion but I’m tall and I can say it helps a lot for sure…
 My friend Anthon working "La soucoupe"

After this good first day despite the long trip we had before I was quite confident for the rest as I thought ok if I can do this in those conditions it should be even better with more sleep and good skin.
Well I kind of counted my chicken before they hatched…
After two rest days I expected maybe a bit too much out of myself… I found myself shut down on “Jungle book sit” which is 8a.  I was feeling terribly weak and fat… I really need to stop eating that much it really doesn’t help!

So the two next days I decided to climb less and try harder things, I tried “Boogalaga” which is 8b more or less one move in the night but couldn’t do it.
In the next days I climbed on easier stuff. On Sunday, although I had decided to rest, at the end of the day I decided to try “Schule des lebens” I had done the left version last year and thought I would climb it pretty fast … I went to the bloc and only noticed I had no chalk nor brush so I went on a quest for chalk picking some left overs on the ground J
Anyway I tried my best but there was no way for me to hold the last sloper…
I gave up and went back to the parking. We there met up some guys and after some taking I felt like I should go back with chalk and a brush… We did that, I had a go, a good one but a damn worm was on the last crimp and I slipped damn it!
My skin was getting bad, I was ruining my rest day which was kind of needed after 3 straight days of climbing…
Anyway I managed to get myself syked and with the cheering of the guys there I finally made it.  No need to say that without those guys pushing me to go and try again I would not have sent it… An other time to remember when I send something hard thanks to people always so kind to give you their time and go with you, same as what happened in my last 8b+.

After this I met up my friend Anton Johanssen, it had been a while since the last time we saw each other and I was really skied to go climbing with him!
We went to “La soucoupe” I started to try with him but there was no chance for me to stick the first move, which is just freaking hard for me…
 For my last day we went back to Cresciano, I climbed a beautiful 7b+ named "El dopionne", then I went back to try again “frank’s wild years” that I had tried briefly earlier that trip. I managed to climb it pretty fast that time and was happy to feel better…
 Here is a pic of me in el Dopionne taken by Ilari Patrikka yet an other  cool finish guy :)
I must admit I watched my weight those last days and it paid off as I felt finally good, but as usual it always happens on my last day…

Anyway it’s been a great trip, I had a lot of fun, especially thanks to a drunk friend haha but also with all the people there. I can’t wait to go back and try a lot of other things!

For now the plan is to carry on the way I’m on and loose more weight and train a bit more to be in good shape for the upcoming comps. If everything goes well, I might integrate the world cup circuit with the Belgian team but for that I have to make a podium in the Belgian championship.

Have fun, Oli.

I'll put some pics later on :)

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