3 décembre 2012

3rd in the Belgian championship

Well, as I expected I finished third thus losing the title. I had estimated I would place at that place although I knew it would still be possible to win, although I knew Nicolas Farcy was in great shape.

The podium is the following

Jan De Smit
Nicolas Farcy
Me
Loic timmermans
John Thomas
Jerome Deboeck
Jurgen Lis
Michael Timmermans
Raphael Fernandez

The podium I had predicted was : 1st Nico Farcy ; 2nd Loic Timmermans ; 3rd Me.
Well I got my objective right as I wanted to be on the podium, and knew third place was the most likely reachable for me.

Lest know analyse what happened. There were four blocs, 2of them were in overhangs walls, including one with a dyno(although some didn't climb it that way) and the two others were on almost vertical walls, with mantles.

I did the first problem onsight without any problem, as well as Nico Farcy and Jan de Smit. Loic sent too but second try.
The second one was looking rather hard, it involved a big wooden feature with a left heel hook on a rather sloppy pinch. I knew this one was going to be the one to send but only Nico Farcy sent it.
I made a big mistake thinking I could skip the bonus hold to directly dyno the next hold which was a jug. I felt a bit unconfident with my left heel-hook, and tried to jump but couldn't take the swing.
I think I made there a big mistake thinking I still had the strength to do such a move.
I would probably have been possible a year before but not this time and I over estimated myself.
Second problem.

Third bloc was a dyno that I sent pretty fast, as well as many other including Nico. At that point, Nico is the only one with 3blocs sent. Then follows Loic with two blocs and one Zone ex-aequo with Jan and then me with two tops. The last bloc would decide who would win, a perfect situation for the suspense...It looked pretty hard on the observation but I though no one could send it except Nico.
Surprisingly, Jurgen sent it as I heard the roar of the crowd. At that point I think that many would then send, especially when Jan also sends it.
At that point, I don't know it but Jan is first, Nico must absolutely send it to win, and I know that if he don't, I'll have to go for the title. When I understand he didn't do it, I know it's coming down on me, like last year, I can win if I top the last problem. I tried hard but found it really hard, not really understanding how the others climbed it but I know they somehow boycotted it but I can't figure how and thus climb it.

It's only after that Jan told me he went straight, skipping the whole problem by topping it out to the right, A mistake for the setting team but a mistake everyone could have taken advantage of, which only two people had the guts to. Jan announced he would go that way, I didn't understand what he meant when he told me, by winning his first big title, he proved guts was part of the experience and the key assets the rest of us missed that night. I'm glad I could finish 3rd anyway after almost a year of non-climbing due to an injury (with go worse after the comp though) but I am also disappointed as I made two big mistakes, each one of them if not made could have granted me the title.

I'm happy for Jan as he climbed really well, proving you can still win ahead of youngsters at 36. I'm disappointed for Nico who was clearly the strongest during the competition but missed the title for the second year whereas being very close to it.

Anyway, it's not that bad, I still feel capable of winning although my lack of training, my injury and sleep troubles so it's all positive. Although, I think I injured myself in the second bloc, trying to hold the swing with my right arm(the injured one) and now it hurts kinda badly...
I'm off for two weeks off now. I hope it'll get better as I'm really getting tired of climbing at 50%.
If not, I will slowly quit the sport to focus on something else, maybe something more intellectual.

 

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