3 septembre 2011

Magic wood again

I’ve made yet an other trip to magic wood to relax before starting school. I came alone here and must admit climbing alone is really boring, it’s not that nobody’s here but I’m usually alone when it comes to working hard stuff and I have nothing left to do here in the easier grades so I must focus on hard stuff.
It’s been a couple of month since I sent new base line and I had not been climbing in bouldering since that time. I had a 15days trip in Spain, mostly in Rodellar where I really did not climb that much, I mean besides trying a little bit “Los inconformistas” which is 8c+/9a, I must have had an average of 3 or 4 goes a days including warm ups. I thus came here with no really good shape and went directly into my project “Remembrance of things past” which was set up by Daniel Woods and given 8B+. Last time I tried it I was on my fourth day climbing and I was doing pretty well but here on my first day I couldn’t do any moves.
I’ve been here for 8 days, I maybe tried my project for 4 sessions but my skin is really weak and I couldn’t really try hard as I have only a few good attempts a day. I had the chance to work it along with Dai Koyamada who sent “In search of time lost” 8C when I was there and I was really inspired. I now have done all the moves in the problem but when I try from the beginning, I fall at the crux which is match, you have a crimp right hand in a maybe 80 degrees roof and you must place the right foot right of your left hand and get a left toe hook on a really sloppy feature and really squeeze so you can match maybe 20 cm next of your right hand.

Here’s an other picture when you see the crux move in a different angle.

Then it’s normally two easy moves but for me it’s really hard as I’m tall and have to use a different beta where smaller ones are able to place a foot pretty high with a toe hook when I have to keep a foot really low and really keep the body tension hard. Then you have the last move which is a right foot knee twisted in with a really bad toe hook. Again it’s really hard for me as I’m really scrunched in that position.


I’m now running out of time for this project but anyway I think it was a bit too hard for this trip as much physically and psychologically as I was most of the time trying alone and the motivation has been really low. Fortunately I have a back up project which is the full “Never ending story” also given 8B+ and which is kind of pretty long for me. It took me a very long time to send the first part and I’m know really set up in both parts, I’ve done it three times yesterday and fell on the big heel hook move to a right hand crimper. I’m really confident that today might be send day but I’ll see what happens.

I will leave on Tuesday but the weather is said to get worse Sunday and Monday so I will try again remembrance then hopefully if I don’t send the story today I’ll have some more attempts on the rainy days. Besides climbing it’s been really calm here, there is a lot of people, the Slovenian youth team is here and I’ve had the chance to climb a bit with them and they’re a really strong team that’s amazing when you know how small the country is.

I’ll make an other post when I’m back home to give my impressions and keep my blog updated about next days.

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