21 février 2012

Font for a week-end #1

Well, I've had an other trip to font this week-end and it feels better and better. So to refresh those who read this blog, I was in font for more than one week not so long ago and it had been my worst trip ever.

So after that trip I had to rest for an entire week to heal my skin and recover from tiredness. I was hoping that I could finish some of the projects that I spent time on during the last trip life "Gourmandise" or "Sideways Daze". I only had two days and the first day, the friends I was with, decided to go to "rocher canon" and I only climbed a little bit, sending one 7c ( which I probably used bad sequence on...) and tried briefly "la baleine, 7c+" which is just something I'm never gonna send...

Anyway, I was just looking forward to the next day because I'd go to "rempart" where all my projects are. I started the day in "Gourmandise" and was able to dispatch the "raccourci" graded 8a+ on my first attempt. This is cool but first, the line has no reason to be considered legit as it is just a variation due to some misunderstanding or I don't know what about the 8B start... Anyway, I tried the start but I find myself missing a bit of power for the very powerful move to the lip of the roof. I had to stop trying as my fresh recovered skin was starting to become a bit too pink, and I still wanted to give "Sideways Daze" a few attempts.

On sideways, I had one "ok" attempt, not more, my skin was just too soft for me to hold the little crimp. Anyway, I went down to the central place to try a 7C that I've tried many times, "Tristesse". The crux is to grab a pinch right hand and then to do a high foot step next to your left hand, move that gets me really scrunched and thus, making it way much harder for me. I tried as hard as I could but after being unsucessful for some tries I just stopped, having still one thing left to try for the day, "T-rex" a nice 7c+.

I was able to send it after a couple of tries, including one where I fell on the last move, being a bit scared to bump for the last hold, as the fall there is quite unpleasant as the problem is surrounded by two big blocs...

So overall it was a good day and I can't wait to get back on shape to try harder stuff in the forest. For now, time is to training and doing my school training course which will last for 3 weeks so I guess I won't climb outside that much for this month but I'll try train a bit more, although I'm not sure schedules will allow that...

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