18 novembre 2010
As stated in my last update, here’s a full report of my trip in Ticino.
Haroun Souirji on his last move in the making of his film “Better than chocolate”.
At first everything seemed to prevent me from going with him things such as college issues, how to go back home blablabla.
I decided to go anyway and some things kept on reminding me that I might have taken the wrong call as on our way to swizzy we ran out of gas in the middle of the highway in France about 1am… I thought dammit should’ve stayed home… Well we were lucky to meet Yussef who drove me to the next station to get some gas…
We actually were supposed to arrived at destination Saturday at 00h00 but with that incident plus the four or five extra hours Haroun took before picking me up didn’t help us arrive in scheduled time…
We thereby arrived a bit tired in the flat he rented in Camorino and decided to head for the boulders.
It was the first time for me in this place as last time I came, I couldn’t climb because of the rain
Saturday, we headed for Cresciano and despite of a two month period during which I barely climbed because of injuries and lack of time, I managed to flash one 7c and make a quick ascent of La Pelle, 8A.
The three next days were forced rest days because of the bad weather that seems to have settled down for a while…
But when we don’t climb, we have a lot a fun with our friends and luckily for us, Anton Johansson, a mate from finland was joining us, being after Haroun and me the third person in the flat and thus making the atmosphere much more friendly.
On Tuesday, we headed for Magic wood as we were in the same time supposed to pick Chris up in Vaduz. Being a little bit pessimist considering the weather forecast( 20cms of snow announced), we still decided to check it out but it ended up in a snow ball battle as everything was desperately totally wet.
So we went to pick Chris up and headed back to Camorino and the Mcdonald where Alex was supposed to rejoin us.
We were now forming a good team really hungry and despite the skepticism of many, I insisted to go to chironico and take a look…Who knows something may be dry…
We were happy to find the “Alphane Moon” dry although a bit humid.
Chris sent quickly while Alex and I kept on falling on the final hard move…
Chris still hungry put all his devotion into working the sitstart which looked and still is really hard. He quickly figured out all the moves and was looking really strong in it…No doubt he’d make it.
On Wednesday we went back to Alphane as we all had projects there. Alex and I both sent Alphane Moon on our first go and Chris fell three times on the last hard moves in the sit including one go during which he should’ have made it but didn’t because of a bad beta.
We then headed towards Boogalagga sector and started working “Walker on earth” which relies on one hard move including a really shallow one finger pocket.
Alex, Anton and I started trying, everything looked good for us when Alex heard something popping in her finger… and I felt pain in the arm while not even pulling on the mono…
Boulder 2 - climbers 0. Fortunately Anton made it easily.
One problem that I recommend not to try if you’re not warm or don’t feel strong in monos…
That evening we were joined by Patrick a good friend Haroun and I met this summer in magic wood and who makes really good pictures.
All the days we were having a lot of fun in the apartment doing stupid stuff but I tell no more because that’s gonna be featured in the movie.
Next day we had an appointment with Michele Caminati in Brione in order to shoot with him.
Haroun filmed him into “General Disarray” and Anton and I made the quick ascent of “Marilyn Monroe” a really nice 8a.
We then headed to filmed a problem that Michele had opened which is a really nice vertical wall in which neither Anton or me could move…( Anton because of his height and I because I have no technique :p )
That was the third consecutive day climbing for me and I was really starting feeling tired and sore in the arms…But as we never knew how the weather was going to be the next day I couldn’t afford taking a rest day during a sunny day and then be f**** on the next one…
I decided to climb on Saturday which was my 4th day in a row as I was leaving on Monday and Sunday was said to be a rainy day.
We went back to Chris’s project and after feeling out the moves again, he made the ascent of this new 8b+ that he latter dubbed on Anton’s advises “Bella Luna”. See his blog for more info.
I decided to head for the deliverance sector and ended facing the 7th boulder on which are two nice lines : “Schule des Lebens” and “No Mystery”. I decided to try the second one and after a few tries I was feeling desperate as my skin was really bad after 3 falls on the last hard move including one after the crux…I sacked up and made it, hopefully Chris lit me the top out otherwise It would have been a lot harder….
The time went so quick ( they say it feels so when you have a lot of fun ) and after eight “beautiful” days it’s already the time for me to leave and get my train back to Belgium.
I’m really pleased on the climbing side that I didn’t feel any pain to my previous bicep tare and despite of the few training session I’ve had in the gym I was still climbing hard and it can only be positive for the next months.
I leave but Haroun stays there for another 2weeks I hope he can get good footage with magic wood mates arriving from Finland ( Anthony ) and France ( Antoine ). Let’s hope he gets good weather and major ascents.
I thank Haroun without whom I’d never have had the chance to meet all those fantastic people.
I thank my sponsor seeonee
Posted by Olivier Mignon